27.8.10


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http://home.scarlet.be/antwerpfashionobserver/PaperFashion/

25.8.10

alter ego when dancing/onstage/playing saxophone/___

'as i thought about all the things i love about this band, i realized how their music has changed my life. it is not something i think about every day, it’s not something that influences my decisions or changes my opinions. it’s something that has been there ever since i first listened to 'Coney Island.' it’s underlying and subtle, but it’s always there. its just happiness. optimism, contentment. Good Old War’s music is ethereal and inviting, perfect for springtime. i’d recommend it to anyone who likes to smile, close their eyes and sing.'

'usually people in this man's position have given up hope. maybe this gentleman has too, i don't know, but he hasn't given up his sense of self or his sense of expressing something about himself to the world. in my quick shot i had noticed his pale blue boots, what i hadn't noticed at first were the matching blue socks, blue trimmed gloves, and blue framed glasses. this shot isn't about fashion - but about someone who, while down on his luck, hasn't lost his need to communicate and
express himself through style.
..looking at him dressed like this makes me feel that in some way he hasn't given in or given up.'
-The Sartorialist

'the utterly shallow and superficial "why-don't-i-have-an-unlimited-budget?" strop. it's a ridiculous strop because i'm not poor either..just not rich. so really, it's just wanton and excessive greed. i was resigned to not buying anything post-strop in New York. afterall, i have great food, friends to enjoy it with and my health (at least part of it). that's a saccharine statement if ever i heard one. though of course, when a YSL sample sale beckons, who bloody cares about a friendly and healthy brunch.'

'such a shame that fashion is one of the only art forms that is so
dependent on money to survive / fashion is one of the only art forms that is so dependent on money to survive.:
all art forms are dependent on money (and have been for hundreds, if not thousands, of years). i'm not sure where the idea that fashion is the only one that relies on money comes from. everywhere you look the arts are being hit by the recession. sure, you may not hear that Unknown Local Artist is struggling and had to get a
day job, but Hollywood's playing it safe with surefire moneymakers instead of original movies, my local art museum only lets people in for free the first Sunday of the month instead of all Sundays, and Philadelphia nearly closed all its libraries. publishers of magazines and books are struggling as electronic media becomes more popular and fewer people buy books when they could read reviews online or go to the library. literary magazines are having to move online to be able to
cover their costs, or putting out fewer issues. one of my best friends did stage makeup and wigs for theater companies in L.A., but when the recession hit work was scarce as fewer places could afford to do as many productions or hire a make-up artist. it's not only fashion. it's everywhere in the arts you look.'

'i should note--as long as people have fabric, needles, and thread, fashion will survive. as long as they have writing utensils, literature will. as long as they have have a medium and a surface, art will survive. sure, they all need money, but it's not like the recession is going to be the death of art. it means that people will regroup, reorganise, and rethink the way they do things.'

'fashion, at it's best, is adaptable to the economy that it exists within, as are all art forms. it is the companies that produce these art forms that do not survive in a recession. the artists will regroup and form anew, they will make do, that is what makes an artist. you work with what you have , and when you have little, you figure out new ways of doing what you do.
the best inventions come out of necessity.'

'we are on the cusp of an amazing time in the art world because we have all of these passionate and creative people who will push to survive.'

'some women are fortunate enough to develop and hone their personal style from a very early age. they know what they like, and they stick with it. some of us flounder a bit more, not trusting when a certain style or garment speaks to us, perhaps because someone in whom we've vested authority steered us in another direction or perhaps because we're not yet confident enough to march to our inner beat when it goes against current wisdom. we launch ourselves on one style odyssey after another.
but like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz, who realizes only after her lengthy travails that she's had the power to go home all along, i've come to realize that while my innate style sense has been trying to guide me, i've often been allowing various style blogs and InStyle and How To Not Look Old and Sex & the City and a plethora of books and articles on how to have _______ style (trend du jour, fill in the blank) to overpower that inner voice. i've often searched for my style somewhere over the rainbow, when it's been right there with me the whole time.'



more words that are not my own

Vogue to Kit Willow-Podgornik of Willow: what would you say is your biggest driving force?
Kit: being able to change a women’s mood for the day. when you put something on and you feel confident, it affects how people view you. fashion is such a powerful tool.

Vogue to Emma Hill, the Creative Director of Mulberry: are women limiting their spending on accessories, given the economic climate?
Emma: no, not really. the financial crisis was never really going to put a complete stop to women purchasing luxury items, but i do think the perception of luxury has shifted to women wanting less ‘look at me’ and more of a ‘i know who i am’ manner, to which Mulberry perfectly fits the bill.
Vogue: what, in your opinion, is the key to accessorising well?
Emma: following your heart and your instinct rather than any rules. have fun with it and understand that a great bag and fabulous shoes will always do your proud and be able to, in an instant, transform any look from ordinary to fabulous.

Vogue to Alexander Wang: what led you into Fashion Design?
Alexander: i couldn’t imagine doing anything else.

Vogue to Abbey-Lee Kershaw: where do you live in New York?
Abbey-Lee: in an apartment in Williamsburg, in Brooklyn, with my boyfriend. he came over with me from Australia. he’s a gem. it would have been a lot harder without him. we’ve been together a year and eight months.

Vogue Italia to Gail Reid of Gail Sorronda: what will be the future of fashion?
Gail: when aliens are legitimised by the government we will have access to alien technology in fashion, meaning greater exploration of fabrics and manufacturing techniques. i predict symbiotic technology where fashion is customised to your DNA.

24.8.10

terribly nocturnal / trying to make sense of corporate wear

fitter, happier, more productive,
comfortable,
not drinking too much,
regular exercise at the gym (3 days a week),
getting on better with your associate employee contemporaries,
at ease,
eating well (no more microwave dinners and saturated fats),
a patient / better driver,
a safer car (baby smiling in back seat),
sleeping well (no bad dreams),
no paranoia,
careful to all animals (never washing spiders down the plughole),
keep in contact with old friends (enjoy a drink now and then),
will frequently check credit at (moral) bank (hole in the wall),
favours for favours,
fond but not in love
,
charity standing orders,
on Sundays ring road supermarket (no killing moths or putting boiling water on the ants),
car wash (also on Sundays),
no longer afraid of the dark or midday shadows,
nothing so ridiculously teenage and desperate,
nothing so childish - at a better pace,
slower and more calculated,
no chance of escape,
now self-employed,
concerned (but powerless),
an empowered and informed member of society (pragmatism not idealism),
will not cry in public,
less chance of illness,
tires that grip in the wet (shot of baby strapped in back seat),
a good memory,
still cries at a good film,
still kisses with saliva
,
no longer empty and frantic like a cat tied to a stick that's driven into frozen winter shit (the ability to laugh at weakness),
calm,
fitter,
healthier and more productive,
a pig in a cage on antibiotics.
sample looping in background:
[this is the Panic Office, section nine-seventeen may have been hit. activate the following procedure.]


the following is just a few excerpts from a university prerequisite portfolio that i've been working on lately. it needs substance, detail, explanation added..and basically - an addition of good / non on-the-run-lead-pencil-sketch things. + add certificates, newspaper clippings, a blurb about how good i am supposed to be..but consider this a beginning template. (images are too small:whatofit)
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i made the covering folder from an old book cover and tore out the pages and spine. i painted the front and hand-stitched the spine back together (sans actual spine). its messy but thats my natural way of working so maybe that will translate itself better than it has here. the inside has tiers of pink and cream lace glued.. this all sounds so grade 2 Show & Tell.:
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20.8.10

one of the major disadvantages of living in a free, democratic country is that every now and again an election will try and ruin your Saturday. fear not! firstly, look for a polling place set up at a school. these usually have ample parking and more often than not will have some kind of sausage sizzle scenario. secondly, be aware of the pamphlet gauntlet. unless they are attractive there is no reason whatsoever to engage these people. do not make eye contact. Simply stride through with the arrogant air of a deluded fashion designer and you should be fine. in extreme cases i would suggest you simultaneously pretend to text someone or, for the more adventurous punter, random twitching and cursing also works very nicely. hopefully these handy hints will make your voting experience a quick and painless one, leaving you with more time for the making of more appropriate party-related decisions.

18.8.10

to the boy who has sent me back into the habit of literature

the following are some sections from a book i've been reading recently. i've read the majority of the books in my shelf over the years so i'm really going through the dregs now. although this one has pleasantly surprised me. it has my mother's first and maiden name written inside the front cover and was published in 1964.

'Lucy Crown' by Irwin Shaw. (blurb: on our shield there are three great words - Suicide, Failure and Adultery, and i challenge any red-blooded American family to do better. Oliver was the failure, with his drinking and his broken marriage. his father was the Suicide. as for Adultery - Lucy was the one who ha yearned for love, and she it was who turned in desperation to a thirteen-year-old boy, a kid only just discovering himself..)

'..the owner decided that she reminded him of the two or three women in his life who, he had known from the beginning, were too good for him. the women had known it, too, and for that reason the owner rememembered them romantically and still sent flowers on her birthday to the last of them, who had later married a colonel in the French Air Force. she was rare combination, the owner thought; she has sweetness and she is confident of herself at the same time. why couldn't she have walked in here ten years ago?' - p9

'when we look back into the past, we recognise a moment in time which was decisive, at which the pattern of our lives changed, a moment at which we moved irrevocably off in a new direction. the change may be a result of planning or accident; we may leave happiness or ruins behind us and advance to a different happiness or more through ruin; but there is no going back. the moment may be just that, a second in which a wheel is turned, a look exchanged, a sentence spoken - or it may be a long afternoon, a week, a season, during which the issue is in doubt, in which the wheel is turned a hundred times, the small, accumulatin accidents permitted to happen. for Lucy Crown it was a Summer.' - p13

''it was glorious,' Jeff said solemnly. 'it was heartbreaking..it was like an earthquake.'' - p135

''goodbye,' she said, forcing him to shake her hand.
'walk away with a nice springy step now. make sure you study hard and get beautiful high marks this year at school.'
Jeff tried to speak but couldn't. he tore his hand away from her and wheeled and plunged out of sight around the corner of the cottage. watching him, Lucy felt like weeping. not because he was going and she would never see him again, or because for a little while he had been dear to her and it was all spoiled now. she felt like weeping because he was so clumsy and she knew how it was hurting him and it was her fault.' - p137

''two weeks ago you wouldn't believe a word i said.'
'because you were lying,' said Oliver.
'how do you know that i won't lie again?' Lucy asked. Oliver sat down, the lines of fatigue bitten into his face, his head nodding over his chest.
'don't torture me, Lucy,' he said.
'answer me,' she said harshly. 'how do you know i won't lie to you again?'
'because i HAVE to believe you,' Oliver said, his voice almost inaudible. 'i sat in the house thinking of what it would be like to try to live the rest of my life without you..and i couldn't stand it,' he said simply. 'i just couldn't do it.'
'even though i'm a liar and you hate liars,' Lucy said, standing over him. 'even though i disgust you?'
'i'm trying to forget i ever said those things,' Oliver said.
'i can't forget it,' Lucy said. 'you were right. it WAS disgusting. i disgusted myself.'
Oliver raised his head and looked at her. 'but you'll change now?'
'change?' said Lucy. 'yes, i will. but perhaps not in the way you think.'
'Lucy,' Oliver asked, and that was the first time he'd ever asked the question, 'don't you love me?'
Lucy stared at him thoughtfully. 'yes,' she said slowly, 'yes, i do. i've been thinking myself these last ten days, about you. about how much i owe you. how much i need you. how much you've done for me. how solid you've been. how secure.'
'Lucy,' Oliver said, 'it's so good to hear that.'
'wait,' said Lucy. 'not so fast. you've done something else too, Oliver. you've educated me. you've converted me.'
'converted you?' Oliver asked, puzzled. 'what do you mean?'
'you've always talked to me about your principles,' said Lucy. 'about the truth. about seeing things clearly, about not fooling yourself. you even wrote a long letter to Tony about it this Summer, when you were worries about his eyes.'
'yes, i did,' said Oliver. 'what about it?'
'i am now your disciple,' said Lucy. 'and i'm the worst kind of disciple. because the first person i've used my faith on is you.'
'what are you talking about?'
Oliver asked.
'lies offend you, don't they, Oliver?' Lucy was speaking calmly, reasonably, as though she was explaining a mathematical equation.
'yes, they do,' said Oliver, but he sounded wary and defensive.
'deception of any kind, by anyone,' Lucy went on, in the classroom tone, 'is sickening to you, isn't it?'
'yes, it is,' said Oliver.
'you believe that, don't you?' Lucy asked.
'yes.'
'and you're lying,' said Lucy.
Oliver's head jerked back angrily. 'don't say that.'
'you're lying to me,' said Lucy. 'but most of all to yourself.'
'i don't lie,' Oliver said tightly. - p138

like a young, first time lover writes her name beside the other's surname, i write my own admist a clothing design pseudonym

Sasha Fay said...
i like this and i have actually been wearing a similar outfit with a black high-waisted skirt and trimmed tank with oxfords. a tucked in shirt isn't comfy so i say just cut off the part that is usually tucked in.
Kirsty said...
beautiful minimal look, without looking like a Celine clone!

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'they are invisible (they let their girls shine), but present none the less.' - Fashionista on the boyfriends / partners of daily style bloggers.

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'so this comment popped up on the previous post which touched on how i justify my spending on clothes...
for my degree show i researched Couture garment details for my jewellery collection especially Schiaparelli (as she was the QUEEN of amazing details, see her trapeze artist buttons!).
this is an extract from an open letter written by Elsa Schiaparelli, requested by the Daily Express on May 21 1936. it is titled; 'from Europe's most discussed dress designer to her daughter'.
it is easy to feel guilty parting with a chunk of money for a piece of clothing, but worse to spend the same on twenty poor quality garments that won't last. when we are next tempted, let's listen to Elsa Schiaparelli's words of wisdom;

'your first inclination will surely be to buy as much as you can for your money. don't give in to it..you can only get to know good clothes from bad by looking at good ones. so, when you see a smart woman, study her. only the rich can afford cheap clothes. if something you see looks worth twice the price, you may be sure the illusion will not last. what you buy must be good.'
- Style Bubble

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'why i don’t care that some t-shirts cost $200' - by Lauren Sherman:

about a week ago, i received a package in the mail from Gap, stuffed with two of the brand’s new t-shirts. the “Perfect T” collection, which launched July 1, includes tri-blend knits, micro modal tanks, and a soft, relaxed burnout fabric. most styles are just $19.50.
of course it’s nice to receive a gift, but more than that, i was intrigued by the feel of the shirts. they felt, well, expensive.

which leads me to my point. thank you, The Row. thank you, James Perse. but above all, thank you, Michael Stars–the original “i can’t believe these t-shirts are that expensive” brand–for raising the quality bar in the t-shirt category.
now, don’t misunderstand my gratitude. i would never, ever spend more than $50 on a tee. (yes, i know that’s still kind of expensive, but if it’s a silk blend i can excuse it.) but i am glad that these brands exist. why? because it pushes less pricey labels to create better product at a lower price. do you remember what t-shirts used to feel like? they were thick, took years to soften, and often became a funny shape after a wash or two.

why the change? consider a brand like James Perse.
i’m not going to go crazy at James Perse every time i walk in, but i have spent money when there’s been a good sale. my reasoning: why would i spend a few dollars less at a specialty retailer if i can get higher quality on sale? suddenly, the Gaps and J.Crews and even Old Navys of the world are not only competing with each other, they’re competing with LNA, Kain, and Splendid as well.
so we must thank those ridiculous brands for offering up $500 t-shirts. we might not be buying them, but they’ve improved the quality of t-shirts we do buy.


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how old would you be if you didn't know how old you were ? / dammit blog, why didn't i do my qcs on that / psychotic-sci-trance-bush-doof-dance / its as though Western Art began with Andy Warhol /

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MC: what is your mantra for dressing?
CH: highlight the things you like. i like my small waist, so whenever i wear a dress or blouse, i always make sure you can see my waistline. it gives me more of an hourglass shape.
MC: what would you say to women who want to minimize their curves?
CH: instead of trying to downplay your curves, find a designer or style that glorifies them. there are designers who simply don’t design for people with shape and there are those — like L’Wren Scott or Roland Mouret — who do exactly that. once you find what looks best on you, stick with it.

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the whole first post is void due to saying 'brang' instead of 'brought'.

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tongue in chic.

13.8.10

speak the truth..even if your voice shakes

Rachel, how will they know when you did what you did? will they investigate? i dont think so......put it in as a demo. of skill and tenacity and expertise. skill is the new Black.
- an ex Art teacher via email

12.8.10

'at what point does relaxation become laziness? what gives my MC Hammer-pant wearing housemate the right to pay $18 bucks to meditate in a room full of bored housewives and then give me sh*t about spending the afternoon on the couch? i don't know the answer to these questions but as i said to my housemate, "these True Blood episodes aren't going to watch themselves!" it wasn't the best comeback but i think i made my point.'

what's wonderful about her shows is that you can't remember what you were wearing beforehand. - re: Phoebe Philo for Celine.
& i couldn't agree more. sometimes i wonder if i would be so into and so comfortable in - button-ups, plain shirts, a palette of greys, creams, monochromatics, and a tiny tiny touch of blue if i need colour, etc.. - if not for the clothes i've been seeing around me in editorials, websites, fashion shows..
would i have come to this clothing conclusion on my own ? or have i just been influenced so much..? i can't remember what i was wearing beforehand.

if i made music i think i'd be like a Whitlams / Ben Folds lovechild with a tinie dash of Winehouse

i am rigidly terrified that i will never find a design aesthetic of my very own.

8.8.10

i have far too many unfinished drafts of blog posts gaining cobwebs

often, creating mood-based playlists can be the most therapeutic thing for me when i find myself tired & upset late at night.
this afternoon i found in my archives an unfinished collection of songs that i'd put together hurriedly a fair while ago.
they are ordered by Artist because i had been making it on my ipod at the time - this is just about the only time i have not ordered a playlist to suit and flow after making it.

Aerosmith - Cryin'
Aha - Take on Me
Alanis Morissette - Hands Clean (acoustic)*
Alex Lloyd - Far Away
Alicia Keys - Why Do I Feel So Sad*
Amy Winehouse - He Can Only Hold Her
Amy Winehouse - Tears Dry on Their Own*
Angus & Julia Stone - Silver Coin
Ani DiFranco - Untouchable Face*
Anya Marina - Move You*
Band of Horses - No-one's Gonna Love You
Bayside - Blame it on Bad Luck (acoustic)
The Beatles - Help!


'our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. it is our light, not our darkness that most frightens us. we ask ourselves, who am i to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, fabulous? actually, who are you not to be? you are a child of God.
your playing small does not serve the world. there is nothing enlightened about shrinking so that other people won't feel insecure around you.
we are all meant to shine, as children do.
we were born to make manifest the glory of God that is within us. it's not just in some of us; it's in everyone. and as we let our own light shine, we unconsciously give other people permission to do the same. as we are liberated from our own fear, our presence automatically liberates others.'

- Marianne Williamson, 1992.