12.11.10

editorial

'an ambition: to share our passion for the best fashion design with those who themselves want to stand out and find the 'other fashion alternative'. the idea: to draw attention to skill and invention, to the quintessentially modern, the avant-garde. the result: Tranoï Magazine. a fashion magazine that tracks the changing mood and reflects the transformations of society. our vision: to be always looking a season ahead - at Spring/Summer in the autumn and Autumn/Winter in the spring - with stylish writing and photography to ignite the imagination. our strength: being the one and only magazine to do it! our arguments: portraits of important and influential figures in the fashion world; emerging talents put under the spotlight; explorations of studios and exhibitions; a social approach to the phenomena of fashion; the poetry of the senses.. to thrill. to live. a world tour: Tranoï Magazine is available to the general public on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, in March and October for women's fashion, January and July for men's. the proof: this, the seventh issue of Tranoï Magazine, to be enjoyed today, without inhibitions.'

Michele Lamy, p4:
Matisse once said that 'Black is a colour in itself that summarises and consumes all others.' what do you think?
yes, of course, i love black. but for me real colour also includes the earth colours, crushed mustards.
when you buy clothes by Rick Owens, you're entering into a relationship with the material, with time; the silks, the jerseys, the cottons, the cashmeres amy be very fine or very thick, fragile or protective, but they have to deal with time, with light, with the body. Rick Owens says, 'my clothes are my autobiography, they have the calm elegance to which i aspire and the wounds i have inflicted on the way. they are an expression of tenderness, and of a competitive ego. they are an idealisation of adolescence and of its inevitable defeat.' clothing is a space of life and expression, and it is created architecturally. you were saying, 'Rick Owens is an environment, a house, furniture.' the names of the colours he gives his clothes, 'dust', 'dark brown', 'dark shadow', they all tell their own story. what do you think of the relationship to the elements reflected in that?
i think its all about time, and i don't like being over-aware of time, i don't like it when things look new. for me its not a question of fashion but a question of movement. its all very well saying this is how it is this season and now its going to change, but i'm with Rick on this. for me, a women isn't like that, she's telling a story of her own.
what is your medium, what is your nature of your contribution to Rick's designs, for example?
at first, it was very simple, i got rid of all the hems, things like that, that look neat and new. you see, what's important is the English butler side, relaxed elegance, you don't care, you slop about a bit..in Rick Owens there's this fluidity, trousers become shorts, clothes are draped. i don't like things that are permanent, which means that things have stopped. i like clothes to be living. i am a completely Rick Owens women.
your favourite flower?
white lilies. flowers have got to be white. that's what Rick and i think. except hortensias can be any blue they like..

Azzedine Alaïa, p10:
in another life, he'd be a gardener. 'i would be sweeping the paths in the gardens of Versailles, gathering the leaves. i'd be utterly alone, with a view of the palace at its best before me, and i would idly imagine the women in their finery.. i see them, magnificiently, majestically descendign the steps outside. one day, i'd dress them for a tremendous masked ball, terribly eighteenth century. another, i'd punish them by not making them dresses, just attending their matters horticultural and disappearing into the royal kitchen garden.'

- Tranoï Magazine, Woman Spring/Summer 2011 - Paris no.7





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