17.7.10

yes; length.. but i feel it is necessarily so

just found this in my ipod bookmarks, how careless of me to not have posted / referenced it a lot earlier..:


why fashion is worth blogging about

this is important, this is what i actually want you to read and care about and comment and talk about.
and another disclaimer: nothing i’m going to say here is new; everything are ideas expressed by other people as well, often more eloquently, and many of which I’ve posted before — Jenna at Jezebel, the girls at Threadbared, a lot of the wonderful ladies on my blogroll, some of the other commenters at Contexts, some of the lovely folks who also post at TFS — everyone has these ideas, and there is a lot more to be said about it. i’m just getting it out there with how and why i agree.

i am sick and tired of hearing that fashion is stupid, silly, inane, shallow, for girls, a waste of time, consumerist, idiotic, antifeminist, misogynistic, pathetic, etc, etc, ad nauseam, and this is why.

look, i need to say first that i grew up thinking i hated fashion. i grew up thinking fashion was for dumb rich bitches (secret inner misogyny and issues with media concepts of femininity much?) and that “fashion” meant Louis Vouitton bags and Sex in the City and Cosmo magazine. by age 13, for whatever reasons, i was so utterly convinced that i was fat and ugly and disgusting and so hopelessly excluded from the pretty people of the world that all i’d ever have were my brains and possibly the fact that i could be “interesting,” so i might as well make a point of hating fashion. so i cut my hair off and dyed it funny colours. i ate up everything counterculture I could think of — converse sneakers, JNCO jeans (phased out for black skinny jeans towards my late teens), pyramid belts, quirky thrift store dresses and teeshirts, pounds of black eyeliner, piercings, band patches and pins, excessive bracelets, messenger bags, combat boots, black plastic glasses (guys, it was the late 90’s/early 00’s and i was like 13, cut me some slack here) — things which became visual identifiers of people i could get along with, things which conveyed similar interests, or similar emotional or social situations. for some pop culture context, my high school peers looked like Jersey Shore and i thought i was Daria.

and here i am a decade or so later writing about fashion and wearing Chanel nail polish and a Helmut Lang shirt (and a studded bracelet and combat boots.) what gives? the problem here is that Daria — in her own way, in the same way i now realise i did — cares about fashion just as much as her sister Quinn and her “fashion club” — a joke which actually comes up in more than one episode of the show, and it took me ages to realise it. i realise now is that as a teenager, i had cared more about fashion than anything else, fashion as self expression and informed choice and blahdybalhblahblah, except i didn’t think of it in those terms, because my teenage self-concept was based around “being the kind of girl who is really NOT into fashion.” and furthermore, most of that had also been its own brand of compulsive consumerism, obsessively coveting certain items and styles as integral to expressing just how ~unique~ and smart and quirky and creative and different and angry and special or whatever it was that i thought i was. and i’m still doing that — we’re all still doing that. and i’m tired of people pretending that they’re above that, and telling me that I’m above that, and thinking that it makes you a “better person” and “smarter” and “more moral” to not care about fashion and that i should feel bad and embarrassed of writing about fashion and that doing that makes me a bad feminist or something like that. because that’s a lot of bullshit.

why do we take the costumes and makeup and tattoos of other cultures seriously and consider them interesting (or at least fetishize them as novelties or put them in museums) while dismissing the fact that such things exist within our own society? why don’t we bother to think about what is going on in the minds of girls wearing Uggs, because let me tell you my combat boots are just as comfortable, so why are they wearing those things on their feet? what statements does it convey within their social groups, what references does it evoke and what does it imply about their economic and social class? there are serious and fascinating social psychology and sociology things going on here — and they deserve to be talked about too. this isn’t “kid stuff” or “stuff for dumb girls” or even “art” (which is equally dismissive in its own way.) this is society, and self-presentation, and economy, and patriarchy, and sociology, and billions and billions of dollars.

fashion, like music and art and many many more, seems to be a double industry: there’s a lot of old white guys with money taking advantage of oversexed naive teenagers who are thrust into the mainstream as props, chewed up alive and spit back out and cast aside before they hit 20. there are crazed consumers obsessed with owning the latest trends and epic amounts of marketing dollars and energy devoted to turning 12 year olds (and their parents) into little consumption machines. there’s corruption and a glaring wage disparity and sweatshops and eating disorders and probably rape and murder too; everything is about power and sex and aesthetics. but what industry isn’t like that? And furthermore, why is the existence of these problems (and their heightened visibility in fashion due to its focus on the link between appearances and money) continually used as reasoning for a.) ignoring fashion and b.) dismissing it as worthless? we don’t do that with music, film, art, real estate, or finance and i think we’d all agree they are just as messed up — just in more subtle ways.

would the world be a better place without Uggs and Ed Hardy? probably. are there a lot of morons out there talking about fashion, and are there are lot of desperate consumption-driven miserable humans out there doing horrifying things in the name of fashion, and are there a lot of women making absurd sacrifices and dedicating themselves blindly to stereotypes and standards promoted by fashion and fashion media without thinking about why or how? undoubtedly. is fashion deeply fucked up, corrupt, riddled with problems, linked to systems of oppression and some of our most problematic social issues? yes. which is why it’s stupid to dismiss it. if it’s so messed up and shallow and bad, why push it aside? why not cut it to pieces and sew it back together in new ways, talk about it and analyze it and get involved and have an opinion and do something about it? (and possibly even have fun and make some friends while we’re at it?)

i don’t think i need to go as far as linking to Meryl Streep’s faux-Anna-Wintour lil’ blue sweater monologue in The Devil Wears Prada (0:50 onward), but i just did anyway — because this stuff is pervasive, and important, and relevant. and messed up. and occasionally awesome. because besides all the issues that we should address and talk about and analyze — there are also thousands of talented and intelligent and creative young women and men making beautiful and functional pieces of art, and there are thousands of them writing about it and taking photos of it and participating in it, and talking to each other about it and making lasting friendships and changing society’s ideas about body and gender and money and style, and learning things and whateverthefuckelse any given industry or personal interest can do for anybody. i spent my weekend at fashion blogging conferences where i saw dozens, even hundreds, of young women (and a handful of men) making friends with each other and finding creative opportunities and personal satisfaction and public attention and money and community and who knows what else — out of fashion, and out of talking about fashion. and that’s awesome, and also worth talking about, also worth acknowledging.

and something else which struck me with a lot of intensity this fashion week — the first one in which i went out there and proclaimed myself as fashion press and used that as a card to participate actively beyond looking at pictures online, and let me tell you, this was far, far easier than expected — is the bizarre (and in a way, very wonderful) sort of double standard of attitudes towards women within the industry. many of you probably know by now that my employment history is largely within the music industry (from record labels to marketing and PR, for a lot of bands you listen to), and i have vivid memories of my first record label internships, my first CMJs, countless shows i’d worked and endless marketing meetings. my memories of CMJ include a lot of going out with (male) coworkers and being asked if i was a secretary. or if i was someone’s girlfriend. or working at a show and being politely reminded that fans can’t access XYZ area of the venue when in fact i was working for the band, just that wearing heels had somehow made me look like a groupie. my memories of the music industry involve cocky male writers and overworked female publicists flirting with them for coverage, involve men being taken seriously and women being accessories, involve an entire industry controlled by rich (well, getting poorer), old, white men. and that filtered down to every day of my work and every show I went to and every female friend who wasn’t taken seriously as a singer, a music writer, or a music photographer, every female publicist who slept with some guy in a band she worked and was patronized for it later, and every female publicist who didn’t and was still patronized for it later, in ways so obvious and blatant it was hard to digest it was actually possible.

this fashion week, not one person asked if i was a secretary, or a girlfriend, or a groupie. i got asked what magazine i worked for, what blog i ran, if people could see my photography, if i was a model and what agency i was with, if i was a stylist, and if i was a writer. nobody assumed i was there because i wanted someone to sign my breasts with a Sharpie. people assumed i was there because i was being paid by somebody. being female (and a reasonably pretty one, inclined to express as reasonably feminine, wearing makeup, and 5” heels - don’t you know that makes me dumb?) didn’t automatically write me off as an accessory; people i encountered took me (reasonably) seriously, and assumed i was “doing something worthwhile.”

of course we have to point out that the industry also is notorious for its terrible treatment of women and is guilty of some of the most publicly visible acts of misogyny, and that it perpetuates some of the harshest judgments of women based entirely on appearance. we have to look at the enormous number of old male photographers and the enormous number of naked underage underweight oversexed overworked female models. and we have to point out that it is likely that people’s acceptance of me is probably aligned with my (both by nature/coincidence and choice) conforming to a painfully strict set of norms — 5’10”, under a size 4, wearing heels, white, skinny, etc — and that my relatively positive commentary here probably has a lot to do with my rose-colored glasses of privilege.

but the fact remains that the ladies and TEH GAYS (and even the gay ladies! whatsup Freja? when are we getting married? teehee!) are doing pretty darn well for themselves here. (here’s a test of that one: how many female film directors can you name in 30 seconds, and how many female designers? How many powerful fashion media ladies can you come up with right now, and how many CEOs in finance?) within fashion, being a woman doesn’t predispose one to being taken less seriously — but there’s a problem beyond that, which is of course the rest of society’s refusal to consider fashion seriously. and i suspect that, to some extent, “fashion is for girls and gay men” plays a large role in this. because i mean, lord knows we don’t want to take anything THOSE people do seriously! bitches and fags, get back in the corner. what do you think you’re doing, making all this money and fuss over CLOTHES?! please, don’t bother us about this — we’ve got more important, noble, and valuable things to talk about — you know, real man stuff. go shoe shopping or something, why don’t you?

and it’s not just that women are more influential and more powerful within fashion as an industry as compared to others — as the main targets and market of a large portion of that industry, women who are merely BUYING the clothes have a huge amount of power with that money that they are spending as well. women, as consumers, then have an enormous potential to shape and define an industry — an industry which, in turn, is so intensely linked to so many other things. if shopping is an informed choice we must make when considering that a.) being naked is cold and socially unacceptable and b.) we exist within an inescapable capitalist society — and furthermore, that what we put on our bodies and how we present ourselves is also an informed choice which allows us to somehow express ourselves publicly on a daily basis — well, that’s a little different than Barbie’s favorite hobby and, you know, airheaded housewives dragging their fat bored rich husbands around the mall, frittering his paycheck away on girly bullshit as he drags his feet and rolls his eyes.

and that’s a fascinating double standard — that an industry so often vilified for its terrible imaging and treatment of women, and an industry which historically has done a lot to keep women economically and/or metaphorically (and physically, as in corsets and petticoats and bound feet) enslaved, is also an industry where women are taken much more seriously as an economic, artistic, and intellectual force. Fashion takes women seriously (as it should! it’s an ass ton of our money moving the whole industry!) — so why doesn’t society take fashion seriously? and if, as women, we have enormous a.) financial power within this industry as educated consumers and b.) a much larger chance of being taken seriously on the career and influencer level than in most other industries — well, fuck it, i’m going to care about it — and talk about it, about both what i love and what bothers me — and that doesn’t make me stupid either.

i’m also horrified by how everyone consistently assumes that fashion is antifeminist, that being interested in it at all, that having ANY sort of open interest in visual self-presentation and any sort of body modification is inherently shallow, inane, consumerist, that it’s for stupid girls, that girls with a nice degree like mine and girls with brains should be doing something WORTHWHILE. (you know, beauty disqualifies brains, and vice versa. of course!) i so often hear “i don’t have any interest in fashion, the industry is so messed up and it’s so shallow and consumeristic. i don’t really care what I wear, I only shop at thrift stores. i can’t stand fashionistas, i can’t stand girls who only ever talk about style. i fucking hate fashion.”

but that is, clearly, an interest in fashion. that is an incredibly intense personal statement about the ways in which your clothing choices relate to the complex web of economy and politics. that personal statement could be about reclaiming the deliberately oppressive fashion of earlier decades into a personal statement about your appearance and your money, or about rejecting one particular set of aesthetic/social norms. that is not proof of immunity to fashion and above all it is not, in any way shape or form, an acceptable excuse to dismiss fashion OR to condescend to those who express any interest in it.

so please — let’s argue back and forth about whether or not Alexander McQueen was an artist or a misogynist or both, and let’s talk about Jen Kao’s use of models of colour and with slight variations in body shape and whether or not this is progressive or pathetic. let’s talk about how and why Kirkwood’s shoes completely rule and why Rad Hourani’s insistence on unisex collections is interesting and whether or not it’s transgressive, and let’s talk about whether or not the “tribal” obsession fetishizes “third-world” nations and how our concepts of aesthetics are linked to lingering post-colonialism. let’s talk about how your self-presentation and choice of clothes is linked to your public projections of your sexuality and social ideas as well as your personality and your friends, and let’s talk about awesome young and upcoming designers who are creating beautiful things. let’s argue about whether or not Vivienne Westwood sending homeless-esque men down the runway is thought-provoking commentary or evidence of the isolation and idiocy of the wealthy fashion world (to add some humour to the situation - i saw a comment on that link that said:'Hm Vivienne Westwood.....that sounds an awful lot like.....DERELICTE.' heehee), and the ways in with both those opinions could relate to greater socioeconomic and social issues within the context of Westwood’s personal history and aesthetic. as long as we argue about it, because it is relevant. and let’s make sure we know what we’re talking about too, because “following fashion” does not make you stupid.

30.6.10

(i) i still cannot fathom that other people can be at different points in their life as i am in mine..
it's a difficult thought process to explain, but i just cannot seem to grasp how others have not graduated yet..i have..how can they not have ?
how can people only be in grade one now ? or discovering anzac biscuit mixture raw for the first time..or the magnificence of having realised that your leg midriff can in fact stay snug ALL evening if you just tuck your winter sleeping attire into your socks before tucking yourself in ??
it's all exploding my brain.

(ii) i remember jotting this down from one of our more prehistoric business procedures at work toward the beginning of this year: 'pay attention to grammar and spelling - both to protect your own reputation and intelligence, and to avoid irritating your recipients who are distracted by careless mistakes.'
is good. is nice.

(iii) today, and i do this far too often, i was walking about 20m behind a close ex-highschool girlfriend - preparing myself to excitedly meet and greet, to the point of thinking about what i would hurriedly cram into our 2 minute encounter before the pedestrian man again becamse begreened - but bailed at the last minute. she looked fabulous, confident, intelligent, adult-ed. from what i could make out sans specs, she had donned a button-up as part of her corporate get-up, amidst a hair cut that she suited to a T or even a U, heaven-scraping heels that were accompanied by the gait of a gazelle, and a graceful hand gesture signalling a daily farewell to some colleagues. we may have even snatched a milisecond of eye-contact as our eyes skimmed near each other as i approached..and raced into a neighbouring newsagency. i got scared.
no, i didn't get scared. i see this friend often these days, working together in town seems to have highlighted just how minute the youthful working population of this city appears to be. there's so many familiar faces to me already, and i've only been slaving away upstairs in the CBD for a few months now (with only a few months to go, you can count on it)..
i often skip out on meeting people i know and appreciate - even if it would only involve a hi, smile, or a wave in passing. i'm sure its not laziness or anxiety or even a physical disgust when comparing our appearances at that point in time.. i just bail all. the. time.
it's a horrible habit that i can never seem to explain or justify to myself above a C+ standard.

though today the fact that i was wearing a polo tucked into a pair of ill-fitting handed down work pants that have neither commited to being high-waisted or lowslung surely did not help my sudden social suicide. i'm sure only swimming instructors wear polos to work as uniform. i had been so excited for months / weeks / days / hours leading up to the grand work uniform shopping experience - with a prepaid budget of $500 to knock thyself out with.. and walked away with two $20 polos that were more or less forced upon me by middle-aged women in comfortable / practical shoes and sockettes. a horrible outcome.
yes my shirts are an o-kay navy, yes they fit o-kay, but..what happened to the button-ups worn loosely, casually..what happened to the work pants of perfect fit, fabric and hip height that i saw paraded in a great deal more than once in the uniform catalogue that we had scoured the day before ?
heartbreak and too quiet an opinion let me down, and now i'm paying the ever painful weekdaily price.

BUT.
irrelevant ish.

the winter kilos may or may not just be getting me down with my overexaggerated polo plight.
well, that, and the fact that my hair seems to have started to fall out. again.

14.6.10

(below are some thought-provoking sections from the song No Problem by Paul Colman Trio - i've been meaning to post them for months now..i don't necessarily believe in all that is said but i think that it is all pretty bloody well-said nonetheless):

i've no problem with compassion or a little bit of dignity, but you haven't asked me a question.. all you do is you patronise me.
we're all God's creation, not just those who agree. if we don't love every heart, then we make God a lie and we simply justify all the reasons why people don't believe.

so this guy says to me..he said, you know, i don't really hate God - i just don't like it when people assume that i don't know anything just because i don't go to church - i said that's fair. he said, yeah, you know they assume that i know nothing; that i believe in nothing. and we talked for a while..and this is pretty much exactly what he said.. (well, we sort of made it poetic..and we took out some words..)
this is what he said;
i've no problem receiving from a God who could set me free. i've no problem believing maybe He came and He died for me..but condemnation and judgement i hate, conversation and endless debates. sometimes i feel i know more than all these crazy people knocking on my door.

yes.

STEALTH WEALTH - The less-is-more approach to luxury.

she wore a full-length navy military coat, blue jeans and a white t-shirt even though it was spring. around her neck hung a piece of buffalo horn, something she had picked up on a recent trip to Tanzania, visiting her father who had married a woman just a year older than her at 29 with a penchant for lion taming. her boyfriend's name was Disco, she didn't drink anything but vodka and water and said that one of these days i would understand. i watched her all evening, mesmerised. yes, she was beautiful but it was the subtleties that won me over. the fine gold ring on her finger. her long untamed the mane of hair. a gentleman's watch with a slightly worn band sitting loosely around her slim wrist. boots up to her thighs; butter-soft, distressed leather in cornflower blue. i was just 20 and on a date with her childhood friend but right from the beginning he stood no chance - besides the fact that he was far too old for me, i couldn't take my eyes off her. she was the most stylish woman i'd ever seen. the kind that makes you want to go home and throw out everything in your wardrobe and start afresh. at the end of the evening as we were getting our things to leave she glanced down at my purse. recently purchased, with all the money in the world (plus some kindly donated from my parents), it was the bag of the moment. an instant status symbol, wherever i took it made me feel as though i belonged to a special club. naively, i expected her to glow with appreciation but instead she look at me perplexed.
'darlink', she said in her husky Italian accent, 'diamonds are best worn on the soles of your shoes'.

this was my first brush with an approach to luxury best described as 'stealth wealth'. a term Forbes.com first coined as being 'about accoutrements that are subtle, not necessarily readible by the general public but by those in the know.'
put simply, its showing off by not showing off.
in a luxury-saturated world where counterfeit exists on street corners and runway designs hit chain-stores just days off the catwalk, its more than tempting to dress down when dressing 'in fashion' no longer sets you apart. that is, personalisation and bespoke are desirable when conspicuous consumption and logo mania are not.
the people who wear it are mostly the style cognoscenti, believing they don't need labels and logos to showcase their taste and wealth.

in a backlash to highly covetable IT items, they choose chic and sophisticated over the latest fad. the Balmain jacket, while beautiful, is so ubiquitous it is no longer compelling, but a pair of royal blue suede Jil Sander pumps are pure understated elegance. teamed with an old shirt and sharp blazer, its a currency that deals in rare and provocative.
regardless of whether the stealth trend has been driven by credit-crunch frugality or sustainable consciousness - there's little debate against the fact that under-the-radar aesthetic is gaining momentum among the fashion elite. the embodiment of classic refined style, Nancy Pilcher, vice president for editorial development at Conde Nast Publications Asia Pacific and long-time Editor of Australian Vogue, admits she's been watching 'a little bit of a change'.
'i don't know whether anybody else has picked it up with (French Vogue Editor) Carine Roitfeld, she's the leader of the pack, the one that the paparazzi in Paris run because of who she is, but she used to wear the most outrageous shoes and the most outrageous clothes and she was very out there', she says. 'now, you would not pick her out from the fashion crowd. i've been monitoring it. she wears very classic court shoes or a bootstrap wrapped around her ankle but not a heavy chunky shoe with a big platform or anything, none of that. her hair, you know, i think she might have had hair extensions in. she's just together. very classic, almost classic going back to a classic thing.'

if anyone knows how to do classic - its Pilcher. white shirts are her signature; she's world-renowned for her collection of YSL Smoking jackets and admires Tilda Swinton because she's not swayed by fashion: 'when she goes to the Academy Awards', she says, 'everyone else was in foo-foo and she can come in this very simple sheath with no makeup and hair back and no jewellery.'

adverse to buying things that scream a label or brand or even a season, for Pilcher, its not about having the latest or the best but feeling comfortable, which in turn is a confidence boost.
my husband always says to me, 'i don't know why you don't just leave your suitcase packed, how many pairs of black pants do you have to take and how many white shirts do you have to take?'
and i say, 'you don't understand, i know exactly what's going to suit me and i think that's a confidence that you build up after a certain amount of time that you just know what's going to work for you', she says. 'i had a big meeting in Japan about a month ago after the shows..and we were talking about how there is an obvious change coming through in fashion that's much more to classic, to basic, to ladylike and wondering how to portray that in your fashion without it looking boring.'

the alternative, however, is much worse, is it not?

in the words of impossibly pared-back Coco Chanel, 'elegance is refusal', and luxury isn't about putting on a new dress. there's nothing stylish about being a slave to fashion: investing heavily in a trend or a covetable luxury piece then finding an imitation on every girl walking down the street.
Pilcher agrees: 'the girls at Balmain can wear all those things because the designers give it to them and they want them to wear it, so it becomes a fashion thing. but by them wearing it, it then filters down, you know that filtering system, it takes a while for it to become mainstream, everybody's wearing it and it loses its cache and it loses its specialness.
'luxury to me means mostly the texture, the fabric, the finish on something and details', says Pilcher. 'i think you can tell something that's a copy and something that's the real thing just by certain details. maybe its a fashion eye where you can tell that something is really great if its not screaming out a brand or label.'

the momentum of the clandestine trend adopted by those in the know is not lost on Holli Rogers, Buying Director at Net-A-Porter, who believes the new luxury is about a personal knowledge.
'the industry has always worked on insider knowledge, but today's luxury consumer is extremely informed and choosing to demonstrate this in different ways than in past years', she says. 'IT bags are around, but they're subtle and without logos. consumers are also buying items that are more artisnal in nature and are showing much more interest in how things are made. at Net-A-Porter, we're buying into a lot more designers that specialise in just one particular category such as Clare Tough and Duffy who focus on knitwear - and they do it brilliantly.'

more noticeably, the classics are more in demand than ever.
'we have stocked Bottega Veneta's classic Intrecciato series of hand-woven bags since 2001', says Rogers.
'these bags remain hugely popular with our customers across the globe. also, there are the new classics like the PS1 from the design team at Proenza Schouler - the handbag does not stay in stock.' Net-A-Porter has been the online saviour to stealth shoppers around the world, Jemima Khan included, and offers a plain wrapping service alongside its branded offering.
'discretion has always been a factor of online shopping and our discrete packaging was something we had in the pipeline for some time before launching it', says Rogers.
'the timing was certainly right, but the move was really about offering customers more choice and another way to shop.'
its not just consumers facing a new sobriety when it comes to trends; the most powerful luxury brands in the world are increasing their reach - and their sales - by staying true to their roots and embracing their ability to do understated. a recent Millward Brown report of the world's top 10 most powerful brands actually showed that the top of the list - Vuitton, Hermes and Gucci, all improved their position by focussing on their history and heritage, and shying awya from anything that looked a little too nouveau.
Louis Vuitton's recent pre-fall collection was a sign of the zeitgeist. despite being the most widely recognised brand in the world, the creative direction leaned on subtle craftsmanship0 with logos in the lining, and the Damier print 'visible-invisible' throughout a crocodile handbag. even a leather-trimmed sailing jacket had the option to turn the label around for serious stealth mileage.
likewise, Hermes, a prototype for hidden luxury if ever there was one, has attributed their reported sales spike to their focus - they do not veer off-brand, but instead concentrate on their classic pieces. Fiona Young, Communications Manager for Hermes Australia, says the Hermes ethos is clear.
'respecting the history of the house, its craftsmanship and tradition, we constantly look to the future in innovation and design', she says of the brand - a saddler and harness-maker since 1837 - that in April took part in creating equestrian events in the heart of Paris, a homage to their first customer - the horse. proving the brand is trend-adverse to a large extent, Young confirms there is 'no demographic at Hermes'.

the fact that the pieces are not too accessible (think of the waitlist for the Birkin bag) makes it all the more desirable to buyers with furtiveness in mind. their time-honoured styles mean consumers would be more willing to invest in items that they perceive will be enduring.
'take the Kelly bag for instance', says Young. 'handcrafted from start to finish by one master craftsman. it takes, on average - depending on the size of the bag, 14 hours to saddle stitch. producing a Kelly bag takes a total of 18 hours of work; 18 hours of patient care, of able and careful effort by a single worker in the service of an art. a bag in need of refurbishment will be returned to the same craftsman who created it, his personal stamp is imprinted on the leather of the bag.'
true luxury always comes back to personal touch. it should never be imposed but always refined by your own taste. whether its a buffalo horn or a Birkin; if you've got it, don't feel you have to flaunt it.

- Jess Blanch, Russh Magazine June-July 2010.

19.4.10

in every war or conflict in which Australia has served, children have been involved; as evacuees, mascots, fundraisers, victims, internees, family and community members and in the armed forces.
during World War I, thousands of Australian school children gave their spare time to knitting socks for men serving overseas.
- Australian War Memorial

16.4.10

i'm harry gardner

and i am thoroughly unqualified. though somewhat experienced in the matter of living.

i am on a journey of learning how to live. a journey that has led me through the open fields and bloody riots of Kenya, into the slums, villages and homes of India’s poorest, and has opened my eyes to the needs of Australia, at my front door.
though i lack any piece of paper guaranteeing any ability what-so-ever, i am able to learn whatever is put in front of me.
i have been called an entrepreneur, but i have no desire to earn any money for what i do.
the projects i invest my life into fill my stomach and nourish my mind, and with that I am satisfied.

for a long time now i have believed in Love. the unifying force of Love, it’s power to bridge any gorge, be it religion, sex, race, age or social status. Love is above and beyond all of our social criterias. this Love is what has pulled me into Africa and India and into the homes and hearts of the poor and the underprivileged.

this same Love has shown me the value and strength of acts of kindness, and this is where my value to you comes into play. if you have a neighbour who needs a fence painted, a mother who needs a veranda repaired, a story that needs to be written, a subject that needs a poem, a house in need of spring cleaning, someone to think and develop ideas with, someone to plan an event, or absolutely anything you can possibly think of, i am available to you. i am here to serve you and do not ask for payment for my services, so in that line of thinking would prefer that any requests you may send are not to help you earn money for yourself. i would rather you think of me as a tool for your own acts of kindness.

please contact me, for any reason what-so-ever.

my current status: to find me on an atlas today you would need to look to Gujurat, India, where I am with my FiancĂ©, learning to play the flute, learning to sew, admiring water buffalos and building pre-schools and community centre’s in the slums of Ahmedabad. i will be returning to the Central Coast, NSW, in December 2009.
- http://thenest.dumbofeather.com/?p=287

10.4.10

..and don't tell yo MAma

Mack the Knife:


Mr Bojangles:


Me & My Shadow:


Beyond the Sea:


such arrogance in one little person..but i almost don't care. i love this album/concert, it's been loved in my family for years and years.
it's much nicer to listen to this concert than to watch. i'd never thought about youtube-ing it til now, and i'm pretty glad i havent..the recording is much more pleasant on most of the senses.
Beyond the Sea especially makes me so so nostalgic for stage band, and saxophone in general. i definitely want to try and scout some sort of semi-casual jazz band wherever i am next year, i think i'll die if i don't !